Why take it
The case for the back way up
The classic Monastery steps are steep, uneven, crowded in places, and fully exposed to the sun. They are a test of stamina in anything but the coolest hours. The Back Trail trades that intensity for distance: it is longer, but the gradient is gentler, the footing is mostly on open ground rather than endless rock steps, and — crucially — you will share it with almost nobody. For much of the walk it is just you, the desert and the silence.
It also shows you a side of Petra most visitors never see. The back of the site is open sandstone country with scattered minor monuments, wadis and broad sky — a landscape that explains why the Nabataeans chose this basin in the first place. You arrive at the Monastery from behind, which means the facade hits you suddenly at the end of the walk, a reveal that rivals the Siq.
Arrive at the Monastery the way few visitors do
We start early, usually between 6:00 and 6:30 AM, with pick-up from your hotel in Wadi Musa or a nearby meeting point. The exact time moves with the season and where you stay. An early start gets us to Little Petra ahead of the busiest hours, and gives you the first stretch of the trail in the cooler, quieter part of the morning.
From Little Petra we follow the Back Trail toward the Monastery: open mountain country, remote paths, ancient water systems and rock-cut structures, with the landscape changing around you. We stop where there is something worth stopping for, such as a viewpoint, a carved façade or a good place for photographs. We can slow down for photography or spend longer on archaeology, whatever suits you. There is no script and no flag to follow.
Then comes the moment we plan the day around. When the Monastery appears against the sandstone cliffs, we pause before saying anything about its history. You haven’t just arrived. You’ve walked here, by a route far fewer people take, and the view feels earned.
Many guests are surprised by how much of Petra they see before they reach the Treasury. Petra is far larger and more varied than that one façade suggests, and for many people the walk itself becomes the highlight.
Your guide is a licensed Jordanian guide, matched to your language and interests, who knows Petra’s archaeology, trails and Bedouin culture well. Along the way you’ll hear local stories and traditions, and details that are easy to miss in a large group.
The route
How to find it and walk it
Where it starts
The Back Trail begins not from the main entrance but from the rear of the archaeological park, reached by walking past the Royal Tombs and the colonnaded street and continuing west along the main wadi past Qasr al-Bint. The path then turns to follow Wadi al-Khayl northward and upward toward the Monastery plateau. Because the start is deep inside the site, you still enter through the main gate and the Siq first — the Back Trail is a route choice once you are inside, not a separate entrance.
Step by step
After Qasr al-Bint, the trail follows the broad wadi floor and gradually climbs onto the plateau. The ground is a mix of packed earth, gravel and smooth sandstone, with occasional short rocky sections — nothing like the relentless steps of the main route. You pass a few small carved monuments and several rest spots. After roughly an hour and a half to two hours of steady walking, the path rises onto the final ridge and the Monastery appears ahead, its enormous back wall coming into view before the full facade.
Navigation
The route is not heavily signposted, and the park is large. We strongly recommend taking a local guide for the Back Trail the first time — it is not a place to rely on phone signal or guesswork. If you walk it independently, follow the main wadi, stay on worn paths, and ask at the cave cafes near the Royal Tombs for the Wadi al-Khayl route; the local Bedouin know it perfectly.
The Back Trail in numbers
| Distance | About 5 km to the Monastery |
| Time | 1.5–2 hrs one way |
| Difficulty | Moderate — gentler than the steps |
| Crowds | Very low — often empty |
| Shade | Little — start early |
| Navigation | Take a guide or ask locally |
Practical advice
Doing it well
Start early. There is almost no shade on the Back Trail, so begin the walk in the cool of the morning. Carrying at least two litres of water per person is not optional here — there are no cafes along this route until you reach the Monastery.
Wear real shoes. This is a desert hike, not a stroll. Closed, sturdy footwear with grip is essential; sandals will leave you with bruised feet on the rocky sections.
Combine it with a descent. The most efficient plan is to go up the Back Trail and come down the main 800 steps — you get the quiet ascent and the classic descent, and you avoid climbing the steep steps in either direction. This fits neatly into a two-day visit as the centrepiece of day one.
Do not attempt it alone in poor conditions. Like all of Petra’s back routes, the trail is exposed and the wadis can be unsafe in heavy rain. On a clear morning it is one of the best walks in Jordan; in a winter storm it is not the place to be.
See Petra through local eyes
Tell us your dates and travel style and we will craft a private Petra journey — with a local team who knows the city’s quiet corners and a licensed guide on request.
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Full Day · about 6 hours
Petra Back Trail — Monastery Route Private Hiking Tour
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